Chanderi

Chanderi is woven in three genuine forms: pure silk, a silk-cotton mix, and pure cotton, all from the same town and all GI protected since 2005. The silk warp is what gives even the cotton-blend version its characteristic sheer, glowing look, fine enough on a good piece that you can almost read text through it.

Region: Chanderi town, Ashoknagar district, Madhya Pradesh
GI status: GI tagged since 2005.

1. 01Yarn is dyed, then the silk (or silk-cotton, or pure cotton) warp and cotton weft are set up on a pit loom sunk into the floor, so the weaver's feet work the treadles below ground level.
2. 02Motifs like coins, peacocks and geometric buttis are worked in as extra weft or fine zari against the sheer ground.
3. 03A plain Chanderi can be woven in a matter of days; motif-dense pieces take longer.
4. 04The finished cloth is washed and calendered to bring up its characteristic sheen.

• Hold it to the light: genuine Chanderi is sheer enough to see a hand through it. An opaque 'Chanderi' is usually a heavier imitation.
• The silk warp gives it a soft glow rather than a hard shine; a flat matte or an overly glossy, plastic-like finish suggests it is not the real silk-cotton mix.
• Ask whether it is pure silk, silk-cotton, or pure cotton Chanderi. All three are genuine but priced very differently, and a seller should be able to say which.

WEIGHT

Very light.

WARMTH

Cool to wear; one of the least warm silks in this guide.

BREATHABILITY

High, thanks to the sheer, open weave.

DRAPE

Soft and fluid, falls close without truly clinging.

WRINKLING

Creases moderately, less than plain cotton but more than a dense silk; hangs out on its own within a day.

Best season: Spring and summer. Warm, humid weather

WASHING

Pure cotton Chanderi can be gently hand washed in cold water; silk and silk-cotton blends are safer dry cleaned, especially with zari.

IRONING

Medium-low heat, slightly damp, with a cloth over any zari motifs.

STORAGE

Fold loosely in muslin. Because the fabric is sheer and light it does not need the same anti-crease care as a heavy silk, but keep it out of direct sunlight so colour does not fade.

STAINS

Blot immediately; a sheer weave shows a water ring more visibly than a dense one, so treat any spill quickly.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Avoid spraying perfume directly on the zari motifs; on the plain cotton-silk ground it matters less, but it is still safer to scent skin first.

Chanderi's softness suits a Nivi drape with a slightly looser pallu; pair with a fitted cotton or silk blouse, since the sheer body does not hold a heavily structured look on its own.