Dupion

The word dupion is thought to trace to a French term for 'double', referring to yarn reeled from two silkworm cocoons that spun together. That double-cocoon yarn reels off uneven, with small thick-and-thin irregularities, or slubs, that are dupion's whole point rather than a flaw. On this shop's weaves glossary, dupion (or dupioni) is described the same way: an uneven yarn from double cocoons, giving a dry, papery handle.

Region: Woven in Varanasi, Bengaluru and Kanchipuram among other Indian silk hubs

1. 01Yarn for dupion comes from double cocoons, two silkworms that have spun their cocoons entangled together, which reels off as an uneven, slubbed thread rather than a smooth single filament.
2. 02This uneven weft crosses a finer, more even warp thread in a plain weave.
3. 03The slubs, small irregular ridges across the cloth, are dupion's defining texture, produced by the weave itself rather than added afterwards.

• The slubs should be visible and irregular across the fabric, not perfectly even; a completely smooth 'dupion' with no texture at all is likely a different silk or a synthetic imitation.
• Dupion has a dry, papery handle and a natural sheen, unlike the softer, more fluid handle of a georgette or chiffon.
• A burn test on a loose thread separates real silk dupion (self-extinguishing, hair-like smell) from polyester dupion (melts, chemical smell).

WEIGHT

Medium; noticeably crisp for its weight.

WARMTH

Mild to warm.

BREATHABILITY

Moderate.

DRAPE

Crisp and structured, holds pleats very well and stands rather than clings, which is why it is also popular for structured blouses.

WRINKLING

Wrinkle resistant, one of its practical strengths.

Best season: Suitable across most seasons

WASHING

Dry cleaning is safest, particularly for the first wash, to lock in colour. If hand washing a plain, undyed piece, use cold water and avoid wringing.

IRONING

Low to medium heat, cloth between iron and fabric.

STORAGE

Fold or roll loosely in muslin. The crisp weave tolerates folding better than a soft fabric but still benefits from an occasional refold.

STAINS

Blot immediately and avoid rubbing. A water stain can mark dupion's slubbed surface visibly, so treat spills the moment they happen.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Scent skin rather than the saree, especially near any zari border, since alcohol-based sprays dull silk sheen generally.

Dupion's crispness holds a structured Nivi drape very well and is one of the more forgiving fabrics for a first attempt; it also makes a good, sturdy blouse fabric to pair with a softer-draping saree.