Georgette

Georgette is defined by how its yarn is spun rather than where it is woven: threads are given a very hard twist in alternating directions, and the opposing tension between them puckers the cloth's surface slightly, which is what gives georgette its grainy, matte texture. It is woven both in pure silk, the traditional and more expensive version, and in polyester, which dominates everyday retail. On this shop's own weaves glossary it is described in Banarasi terms as the usually silk ground used for some Varanasi weaves.

Region: Woven across many Indian silk hubs, including Varanasi and Surat; not tied to a single GI region

1. 01Yarn is given a very hard twist in alternating directions before weaving.
2. 02The opposing tension between S-twist and Z-twist threads in both warp and weft puckers the surface slightly as the cloth comes off the loom, rather than any printed or embossed finish being applied afterwards.
3. 03Georgette can be woven pure silk or in synthetic yarn; pure silk georgette is the traditional, more expensive version, while polyester georgette dominates the everyday market.

• Rub a corner between your fingers: pure silk georgette feels slightly warm and has a soft scrunch sound; polyester feels cooler and more slippery.
• Look closely at the surface texture in raking light: the grainy, slightly puckered weave should be visible. A perfectly flat, shiny surface usually means a different fabric, not georgette.
• A burn test on a loose inner thread separates silk georgette (self-extinguishing, hair-like smell, dark ash) from polyester (melts, chemical smell, hard bead).

WEIGHT

Light.

WARMTH

Mild; more breathable than a dense silk but less airy than chiffon.

BREATHABILITY

Good.

DRAPE

Has more body and grip than chiffon, so pleats and the pallu hold on the shoulder rather than sliding off.

WRINKLING

Wrinkle resistant; the weight of the fabric itself smooths out most creases without ironing.

Best season: Suitable across seasons, popular for summer evening functions

WASHING

Pure silk georgette: dry clean. Polyester or poly-blend georgette: hand wash in cold water with a gentle detergent and lay flat to dry.

IRONING

Rarely needed if hung or laid flat to dry. If ironing, use the lowest heat through a pressing cloth, since high heat can flatten the grain or glaze synthetic georgette.

STORAGE

Do not hang by the pallu; the weight of the fabric stretches it over time. Store flat or loosely rolled instead.

STAINS

Blot, do not rub; treat synthetic georgette with a gentle detergent, and take silk georgette to a dry cleaner.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Avoid direct spray, particularly on silk georgette; let fragrance dry on skin first.

Georgette's grip makes it one of the easier fabrics for a first-time draper, since the pallu tends to stay put on the shoulder without pinning.