Kanjeevaram

Kanjeevaram (also spelled Kanchipuram or Kanjivaram) is a handwoven pure-silk saree from Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu. Its signature is the korvai technique, which interlocks a contrasting border into the body at the weave itself rather than stitching or printing it on, so a genuine Kanjeevaram border does not come apart from the body the way a sewn-on one can.

Region: Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
GI status: GI tagged as Kancheepuram Silk.

1. 01Mulberry silk yarn is degummed and dyed; zari, silk thread wound with silver and gilded with gold, is prepared separately.
2. 02Three shuttles are used at once, one for the body and one on each side for the border, with a helper working alongside the main weaver.
3. 03The korvai technique interlocks the weft of the contrasting border into the body at the join, so the two colours are woven together rather than sewn.
4. 04A plain Kanjeevaram can be finished in about a week; a heavily worked bridal piece takes considerably longer.

• Bend the fabric: real Kanjeevaram has enough silk weight to make a distinct rustle, sometimes described as the silk sound.
• Check the border join on the reverse: a genuine korvai border shows a small zigzag interlock where colours meet; a stitched-on or printed border lies perfectly flat with no interlock line.
• Ask for the Silk Mark tag, which most genuine Kanchipuram silk carries.

WEIGHT

Very heavy, among the heaviest sarees in everyday use.

WARMTH

Warm. The dense mulberry silk and zari border make it a poor choice for an outdoor summer wedding but ideal for a covered mandap or an air-conditioned hall.

BREATHABILITY

Low.

DRAPE

Stiff and structured; it stands rather than clings, and holds a pleat cleanly through hours of standing and sitting for rituals.

WRINKLING

Very wrinkle resistant, one of its practical advantages for a long wedding day.

Best season: Any season indoors, though best suited to winter or an air-conditioned venue given the weight

WASHING

Dry clean only.

IRONING

Low heat, cloth between iron and fabric. Kanjeevaram rarely needs much ironing because it resists creasing.

STORAGE

Store flat, wrapped in muslin, and refold every few months; the heavy zari border is the part most likely to crack on a fixed crease.

STAINS

Blot and take to a dry cleaner who works with heavy zari silk; do not attempt home treatment.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Do not spray perfume or deodorant on the saree. Apply scent to skin first and let it dry, since alcohol dulls silk and tarnishes real zari.

The classic Madisar or a standard Nivi drape both suit Kanjeevaram's stiffness; a contrast silk blouse in one of the border colours is the traditional pairing.