Maheshwari

Maheshwar has woven cloth since at least the fifth century, but the saree known today as Maheshwari dates to the eighteenth century, when Rani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore brought weavers from Surat and Mandu to Maheshwar to weave nine-yard sarees and textiles for the royal household. The craft declined and was revived from 1978 by the Rehwa Society, founded by Richard and Sally Holkar, and received a GI tag in 2010.

Region: Maheshwar, on the Narmada river, Madhya Pradesh
GI status: GI tagged since 2010.

1. 01Cotton and silk yarn is dyed, traditionally with natural colours though chemical dyes are common today.
2. 02Yarn is set up on a lightweight metal fly-shuttle frame loom.
3. 03The saree's signature reversible border, where the pattern is legible from both front and back, is woven with an interlocking technique at the border join.
4. 04Motifs are typically small: geometric stripes, checks and simple buttis rather than dense figuration.

• Feel the border: a genuine Maheshwari border should look nearly the same from the reverse as the front.
• The cotton-silk blend gives it a soft sheen without silk's full weight; an all-cotton or all-polyester copy will feel either flatter or slicker.
• Ask whether it is handloom, from the Rehwa Society or a similarly registered weaver, or a power-loom copy sold under the same name. Only the former is the GI-eligible product.

WEIGHT

Light to medium.

WARMTH

Cool to mild; comfortable across most of the year.

BREATHABILITY

Good, cotton-forward blend.

DRAPE

Crisp rather than clingy, holds a defined pleat.

WRINKLING

Creases moderately, recovers well when hung.

Best season: Spring, summer and early monsoon. Warm weather generally

WASHING

Gentle hand wash in cold water for cotton-forward pieces; dry clean if the saree carries silk zari work.

IRONING

Medium heat, since the cotton content tolerates more than pure silk would.

STORAGE

Fold in muslin or cotton, away from damp. The metal-loom weave is sturdy but still benefits from an occasional refold.

STAINS

Treat promptly with a mild detergent for a cotton-silk piece; for zari-heavy borders, take it to a dry cleaner instead.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Keep perfume and deodorant off the border where any zari sits; the plain cotton-silk body is more forgiving but still best scented before dressing.

Maheshwari's crispness suits a simple Nivi drape well; it pairs easily with a plain or block-printed cotton blouse for a daytime look.