Mulmul

Muslin from Bengal was already a known commercial fabric almost two thousand years ago, and is mentioned as early as Chanakya's fourth-century-BC Arthashastra; the finest historic grade, Dhaka muslin, was spun so fine that travellers called it woven air, with thread counts said to reach 800 to 1,200 per inch against 40 to 80 for typical muslin, using the now largely lost phuti karpas cotton unique to the Dhaka region. Modern mulmul is a coarser, more accessible descendant of that same tradition, woven from ordinary fine cotton yarn rather than phuti karpas, which is what makes it affordable rather than museum grade.

Region: Historically Dhaka and Bengal; woven and sold as a lightweight cotton category across India today

1. 01Fine cotton yarn, modern mulmul generally from ordinary fine cotton rather than the historic phuti karpas plant, is prepared for weaving.
2. 02The yarn is woven loosely and lightly to keep the cloth as sheer and soft as possible.
3. 03Little to no starch is applied in finishing, which is what keeps mulmul's soft, slightly crinkled hand rather than a crisp, starched finish like Tant.

• Mulmul should feel notably softer and lighter than an ordinary cotton or Tant saree, almost like a soft cotton voile.
• It softens further with every wash rather than staying crisp, unlike a starched Tant; a saree that stays stiff wash after wash is probably a different, heavier cotton.
• Hold it to the light: mulmul is semi-sheer, letting light through evenly across a loose, fine weave.

WEIGHT

Extremely light, among the lightest cottons available.

WARMTH

Cool, one of the coolest fabrics in this guide.

BREATHABILITY

Excellent, its defining quality.

DRAPE

Very soft and fluid, falls close to the body without much structure.

WRINKLING

Creases into soft, informal folds rather than sharp lines; this soft crinkle is part of the fabric's character rather than a flaw.

Best season: Peak summer, the season it suits best

WASHING

Gentle hand wash in cold water with a mild detergent; mulmul is delicate enough that machine washing on anything but the gentlest cycle can stress the loose weave.

IRONING

Low heat, and only if needed; mulmul is often worn with its natural soft crinkle rather than pressed flat.

STORAGE

Fold loosely in cotton or muslin. Because the weave is so fine and loose, avoid tight folding or hanging by a corner.

STAINS

Treat promptly and gently, without scrubbing, since the loose weave can distort or snag.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Cotton mulmul tolerates perfume and deodorant reasonably well compared with silk, but letting fragrance dry on skin first avoids any mark on such a pale, sheer fabric.

Mulmul's softness suits a relaxed, less structured drape; it is not the fabric for a stiff, sharply pleated look, and looks most natural worn a little loosely.