Tissue

Tissue is named for its gossamer, almost see-through appearance, which becomes more pronounced in direct light. Its zari brocade roots trace to the Mughal period, when artisans in Banaras and later Uppada began working fine silk against a zari weft that runs across the whole ground rather than sitting only at the border, which is what makes tissue silk read as metallic cloth rather than silk with a metallic trim.

Region: Historically linked to Mughal-era Banaras and Uppada weaving; woven across several silk hubs today

1. 01A silk warp is crossed with a zari weft across the whole body of the cloth, not only at the border.
2. 02In much genuine tissue, the zari thread itself is a high proportion of metal to silk, which is what gives it such a dense, all-over shimmer.
3. 03The base silk is woven fine and light, so the zari carries the visual effect without making the saree unbearably heavy.

• Tissue should shimmer as a whole ground, not just at a border. If only the edges catch light, it may be a plain silk with a tissue-style border rather than true tissue.
• Real zari feels slightly rough and has an uneven glow; a uniformly smooth, bright metallic sheen across the whole saree often means a synthetic metallic yarn substitute.
• Ask directly whether the zari is real (silver-gilt or tested) or a synthetic metallic yarn. Tissue is one of the fabrics most often sold with a fully synthetic substitute zari.

WEIGHT

Light in terms of the base cloth, though the all-over zari can make it feel more substantial in the hand than its actual weight suggests.

WARMTH

Mild to warm; the metallic ground does not breathe as well as plain silk.

BREATHABILITY

Lower than plain silk because of the dense zari weft.

DRAPE

Falls with a slight stiffness from the zari, holding gentle structure rather than clinging.

WRINKLING

Shows creases readily since the zari can crimp; avoid tight folding.

Best season: Best for evening or indoor, air-conditioned occasions given the metallic ground's warmth

WASHING

Dry clean only.

IRONING

Low heat, and avoid pressing directly on the zari; iron the reverse through a cloth if possible.

STORAGE

Wrap in muslin, store flat, and keep out of direct sunlight, which can dull real zari over time; refold periodically so no single crease bears the strain.

STAINS

Do not attempt home treatment; take it to a dry cleaner experienced with real zari promptly.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Never spray perfume or deodorant directly on tissue silk. The all-over zari is more exposed to alcohol-based sprays than a bordered saree, and it will tarnish faster if scented directly.

Tissue's light weight and slight stiffness suit a classic Nivi drape. Because the whole ground already shimmers, a plain, unembellished blouse usually looks better than a heavily worked one.