Tussar Silk

Tussar comes from the cocoons of the Antheraea silkworm, which feeds on forest trees such as asan and arjun rather than being reared indoors on mulberry leaves. That is what makes it a wild, or vanya, silk, and why it keeps a natural gold-brown colour instead of the bright white of mulberry silk. Bhagalpur in Bihar has woven silk for generations and is the fabric's best known home; it received a GI tag in 2009.

Region: Bhagalpur (Bihar), Phulia and other hubs in West Bengal, and Kosa tussar from Chhattisgarh
GI status: Bhagalpur Tussar has carried a GI tag since 2009.

1. 01Cocoons are gathered from forest trees rather than reared indoors.
2. 02The cocoons are boiled in water and soda for thirty minutes to two hours to loosen the natural gum before the filament is reeled off.
3. 03The reeled yarn is spun and set up on a pit or frame loom; weaving a plain tussar saree takes roughly three to twenty days depending on the design.
4. 04Motifs, where there are any, are usually block printed, hand painted, or woven in as a simple zari border rather than the dense brocade work of a Banarasi.

• Real tussar has a rough, slightly nubby texture and a natural gold-brown or honey base colour, not a bright white. A dead-white, perfectly smooth 'tussar' is usually a blend.
• Rub a corner between your fingers: it should feel dry and slightly textured, not slippery like mulberry silk or a synthetic.
• Ask for the GI or Silk Mark documentation if the seller claims Bhagalpur origin specifically.

WEIGHT

Medium and slightly stiff, heavier than chiffon or georgette but lighter than a dense Kanjeevaram.

WARMTH

Warmer than cotton and holds heat more than a fine mulberry silk. Better for cooler weather or an air-conditioned hall than for an outdoor daytime function in summer heat.

BREATHABILITY

Reasonably breathable for a silk, though the textured weave traps a little more air near the body than a smooth weave.

DRAPE

Falls with body rather than clinging; its natural stiffness stands slightly away from the frame instead of following it.

WRINKLING

Creases if crushed in a bag, but the creases mostly drop out on hanging; it does not need daily ironing.

Best season: Winter. Early monsoon. Air-conditioned indoor events; less ideal for a hot, humid outdoor afternoon

WASHING

Dry clean. If hand washing a plain, undyed piece at home, use cold water and a mild silk wash, and never wring it.

IRONING

Iron on the lowest silk setting, with a cotton cloth between the iron and the fabric, while the saree is slightly damp.

STORAGE

Wrap in muslin or a cotton cloth, not plastic, and refold along a different line every few months so no crease sets permanently.

STAINS

Blot immediately, never rub. A water stain on silk can leave a ring, so take it to a dry cleaner who works with silk rather than treating it yourself.

PERFUME AND DEODORANT

Do not spray perfume or deodorant directly on the saree. Both contain alcohol, which dulls silk's sheen and can leave a permanent mark; let fragrance dry on skin first.

Tussar's slight stiffness holds a pleat well, so it suits a standard Nivi drape. A contrast silk or cotton blouse works well since tussar's matte finish sits quietly next to a brighter blouse fabric.